The front trim lifts similar to the rear trim. Plastic clips are the same 'push in' type. I think there are four along the length. Peter
Great, thanks again. I didn't actually take the rear one out before as it seemed a bit reluctant to move and I didn't want to apply too much brute force (coming from a position of ignorance!) So, I've now removed them both. Under the front carpet was pretty wet too, not really the flat section but where it comes down from the bulkhead. Can't believe how much time it takes to dry these wet carpets out!
Well, 1 week on and this is now all sorted and the car back together which is a nice feeling. Just need to deal with the "charge battery" message that it's telling me about now. Only one major mishap - on tidying the garage I discovered I had lost a sponge which I suspect must be somewhere under the front or rear carpet! Oh well, a bit of extra sound insulation - I'm certainly not taking it all apart again to find it!! Gavin
Hi everyone. New to this group, so hi . I am on my 2nd F10/F11, currently a F11 520d MSport. It's been a great car until my recent error messages on the I Drive The error messages include Autohold, Parking Brake, Transmission, Chassis, Drive train, Steering, ABS. I've almost lost count! The eyes don't ahead until I either build speed, make sharp turn or brake, making me wonder whether there is any water sloshing about coming into contact with the electrics. (I've checked the battery and it's dry in therel. I've checked my yellow grommet, there's a tide mark (See photo), but no obvious sign of water collecting anywhere. I've not pulled the carpets up to check but they feel touch dry. Are there any electrics in the nearside passenger compartment that could be causing these error messages? Or is it just the sub? I don't really want to pull the carpets up if this unlikely to be the cause of my problems. Thanks. Sent from my SM-G977B using Tapatalk
Hi Fb72 When I discovered the F10 was a mobile water reservoir I did not need to take the carpets up to realise there was over a inch of water in the floor plan, it was easy to detect by removing the floor mat velcro disks in the rear passenger footwell, and the hole in the carper enabled me me to see water underneath it, doubly confirmed by compressing the floor carpet/sound insulation and getting a squirt of water up out of the hole! Was not impressed as was on holiday 100's of miles away from home. I had no error messages or warnings whatsoever, apart the windows misting up. The rear carpet was lifted to help things dry out which took well over a week. My fix was not to remove the grommet as that really needs a front carpet out as I believe the grommet needs installing from the inside and not the outside of the car. I just thoroughly cleaned the grommet and area in the engine bay and applied a liberal amount of sealant over the grommet and the edge to the car body. I also created a drain hole/channel in the bottom of the insulating cover to help drain water/sludge that gathers behind it. The whole area is a very bad design and implementation IMO, would be interesting to know if its been carried over to the G series or improved.?
Thanks that helpful, I shall take another look. I am curious to know whether there are any electrical components in the floor that could give to my error messages? I.e any ecus or control modules etc? I fear spending many £100's just to identify the fault! Sent from my SM-G977B using Tapatalk
Yes, check to see if there is damp in the passenger side footwells. Rear footwell will be the bottom of the pond! There are wires running through the side of the floor. Never saw any modules under my carpets. For me the greatest concern was getting water in the underfloor sub speakers. I opened the cavity and ensured all was dry before reassembling. I suggest your issues may need investigating, once you know if all is dry. Peter
Where is the grommet though? I see pictures of it but where is it actually located??? Need help asap I have the issue going on right now!
It's situated on the passenger side bulkhead. Imagine where the steering column would come through the bulkhead on a LHD model. It's behind the small plastic cover (picture of the reverse side of the cover in the first post). Hope you have success. Peter
Welcome to the forum, Jorge . An introduction about yourself would be good, and we like to see pics of new Member's cars too . Hope you get the problem resolved - keep us updated?
I went through the same with my 640d, fortunately setup is the same as in case of your cars. Did anyone managed to get to the entire section where the rain water drips from the windscreen? That has to be modified and fixed as someone said earlier but I haven't seen any info how to disassemble the break servo (if that's what it is on passenger side) and correct BMW construction fault which they are repeating since at least 10 years across the entire series...
Welcome to the forum . The brake servo will be in front of the driver. Can you post a pic of what you're referring to?
Thanks for such quick reply. I have English version of BMW, so things might be moved on the opposite sides. I mean this black box which is right next to the rew arrow which I made. This for me is the passengers side: https://imageshack.com/i/pnkICdxwj
What's the issue in the area where you have put your arrow? From my knowledge on the grommet issue, you don't have to modify anything if you don't want to, just replace the failing grommet. You can modify the cover to allow extra drainage out of the bottom, if you don't trust the built in drainage anymore. I'd like to be enlightened. Do you mean getting easy access to the lower drainage outlet, down in the bulkhead 'cavity', to behind the wheel well liner? Peter
Not sure how to enlighten you Peter... My questions is: water gets there from the windshield side, how to clean the entire passage and how to ensure that it doesn't collect next to/in front of the yellow grommet.
Ah, I'm with you, it is the build up of crud that is the issue. The part that really slows the drain away, is the rubber in the picture gets blocked/partially blocked. You get at it behind the wheel well liner. Poke about with a wire and hose from above and it flows a dream. BTW, I vac leaves and rubbish from above in autumn, with a hose extension I made for my cleaner. The other simple check, is removing the small plastic cover in front of the grommet. Ensure the secondary part doesn't block into the main drain. Reminds me, I need to take mine off the next good day and check mine out. Haven't done it since all the autumn leaves have been sucked out of the bulkhead areas. Peter
Another point to note: The small tube which drains from the grommet area, (once it's all closed in) to the bulkhead, also needs to be checked. Apologise for the poor picture quality, was taken with a 'cheapo' endoscope camera. When draining properly, the water drains from in front of the grommet, should not have standing water in front of the grommet. As we know this is the problem, water sits there and is what causes the deterioration and leak from the grommet. Peter
Thanks Peter, This is super helpful. Re your first picture - which rubber is it exactly? The one around 3 black pipes with metal rectangular connections on them? I have tonnes of debris and leaves from street where I park but cannot park anywhere else. Have you found any other way of cleaning that section underneath my red arrow except of hoovering with modified, slimmer pipe? I disassembled entire plastic cover there, but it doesn't give better access. Where exactly is that white pipe? I haven't seen in my 640d but don't have endoscope camera and my head is too big Also, how about the driver side? Can it also be drained from above the wheel arch? And how about the rear window drains? Need to make sure it doesn't get blocked because, apparently, then it goes to the lowest point which is where battery lives...
The drain tube is to the right of the grommet. Arrowed in the image. In fact, the tube goes to the rubber component that fits around the brake pipes in the base of the bulkhead cavity. Note Part 1 in the schematic. Water drains through the rubber from the grommet cavity and the main bulkhead cavity. It is difficult to get to the bottom of the cavity on either side, hence the need to improvise some way, to suck the crud out when it's reasonably dry. Any standing water in the bulkhead cavities indicate the drains are blocked. Should drain out to more or less see the bottom with a torch. The drain rubbers (part 1) are out of sight from above. Hope this helps a bit more. Peter