2011 F10 Brake fluid replacement...do I need a diagnostics tool?

Discussion in '5 Series' started by Oddsocks, Sep 22, 2015.

  1. Oddsocks
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    Oddsocks

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    I've just got the warning up that the brake fluid is due for a change on the F10. I've got a sealey pressure bleeder and have bled brakes before, but doing a bit of googling (actually re my brother in law's E92 that we are doing a fluid change on this weekend) it appears that (ideally) you should put the car into ABS/DSC bleed mode. I can do that for the E92 via DIS, but for the F10 it's too new for DIS. Historically I've never done that for the 2006 E61 I have and not noticed any issue.

    Given that the F10 fluid was changed 2 years ago (previous owner dealer stamp) would a pressure bleed be sufficient without activating DSC mode? I've found posts online saying to either start the engine whilst pressure bleeding (to activate DSC), or just with the pressure removed, pump the brakes and open the bleeder untill the flow stops.Unfortunately all the posts relate to the E90 series; I've not found anything specific to the F10/F11.

    There is no spongy pedal or leaks so this is just a time driven 24 month fluid change. What is the perceived wisdom of the forum :)

    Assuming that a diagnostics tool will be needed sooner or later (i've got a foxwell that reads all the module codes but does nothing else) what are the preferred ones? previously I've considered the Autogenuiity with BMW module but am not a fan of laptop based tools. I've also had emails from carsoft for their new handheld tool (about Euro 800).

    Thanks

    Dave
     
  2. markyboyt
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    markyboyt

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    You should be ok without running it through the bleed procedure. I would fit the pressure bleeder then as you bleed each brake before you close the bleed nipple pump the pedal 4-5 times (with the pressure still on).
    Oh and good luck with the rears as the nipples are awkward to get on.
     
  3. Oddsocks
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    Oddsocks

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    Thnaks Mark - I'll let you know how I get on.
     
  4. JasonH
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    JasonH

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    I've changed the fluid in my E61 a few times and replaced some brake components. I've only had air come out from the ABS module using DIS V57 when I replaced the master cylinder (i.e. introduced lots of air into the system) even then there wasn't much trapped in the ABS.

    I think you'll be fine with a pressure bleed as long as you don't run the reservoir dry!

    Regarding diagnostics for handy use I think you'd be best off with a C310 scanner - although I have no personal experience; just a few minutes with a C110.

    If you need full diagnostics ISTA/D is the way to go, that's what the dealers use now (replacing DIS). ISTA/D can be run on a Windows laptop with a USB lead for older BMW's and an Ethernet lead for F10/F11 etc.
     
  5. Oddsocks
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    Oddsocks

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    Thanks Jason. I've actually got both C110 and 310 - the 110 even found my E61 lambda sensor fault that DIS didn't show (the DPF kept blocking due to too rich mixture). I bought the 310 for the F10 and it gives codes but I found some of the screen layouts poor (e.g. wrong font size or text off screen) but for the money both basic but v good
     
  6. Oddsocks
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    Oddsocks

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    Well, I did the full fluid brake bleed today and it was straightforwad using the sealey pressure bleeder. As markyboyt had said, the rear bleed nipples were a bit difficult to get a spanner on, but I've got a 'high crank' 11mm spanner so it was able to clear the surrounding metal to allow the nipple to be turned enough in one go. I bought 1.5l of dot4 and actually used just over a litre for the full bleed..
    Once completed, I reset the idrive brake fluid service using the trip reset button as shown on youtube (just search 'how to reset bmw f10 service light').

    However, after the bleed the idrive gave another service warning re front brakes as the car couldn't determine pad wear. When I bled the nearside front I thought that the brake wear cable didn't feel right where it was held by the bleed nipple cap - sure enough, both wires were broken inside the outer rubber sleeve. Easily fixed with some bellwire, solder and heat shrink.
     
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